Italian 101: Buon appetito!
Monday, June 8, 2009 at 07:26AM
People back home often ask me what the difference is between the various names of Italian eateries: Is a ristorante the same as a trattoria? And how do you pronounce it? There is indeed a wide range of choices. In the United States these names are often used interchangeably for marketing purposes whereas in Italy they have more specific connotations: You wouldn't go to an osteria and expect to find a complete dinner menu. So here's a brief glossary of terms so that you can impress friends with your deep understanding of Italian cuisine.
Ristorante (ree-sto-rahn-tay):This is at the top of the food chain in the food world. The word actually comes from the French word that we borrowed in English: Restaurant. Here you can typically expect to find full meal and drink service with everything from appetizers to dessert. Quality ranges from multiple-star establishments all the way down to local mom-and-pop joints with more hearty fare. In Italy, it's best to ask a local or follow the Italians in a touristy area like Florence—and not the tourists—to find a good spot. Guide books are very suspect and you are prone to find restaurants that may have a quid pro quo with the reviewer or haven't been reviewed at all. Locals will debate the finer points of who has the best ragù, but I hardly ever have a bad meal.
Trattoria (trat-to-ree-ah not trat-or-eeah): Tougher to pronounce (don't forget the two Ts). This is the little cousin of the restaurant; probably the next step down in the hierarchy. Trattorie are usually found in populated areas but where a full-service restaurant with a large menu might not fly. You probably don't need reservations and can expect it to be less formal and less expensive.
Osteria (Oh-stay-reeah): Small establishment specializing in wine and perhaps small, simple meals or appetizers. Oste literally means, host or innkeeper. So, an osteria could be thought of, alternatively, as an inn, taproom or porterhouse. Back in the day, osterie were places almost exclusively frequented by men for socializing. Nowadays, you tend to see the older men playing cards in bars.
Taverna (tah-vair-nah): Think tavern or more precisely, ye olde English pub. The taverna is the little cousin of the trattoria and above the level of a bar. More specifically, they are usually open only in the evenings and they serve drinks as well as simple fare. I actually hardly ever hear this word used and when I do, it is usually part of the name of the establishment.
Locanda (lo-cahn-dah):This is where it gets interesting. A locanda is a place that serves typical local products and has rooms where you can spend the night. Menu may or may not be extensive. Less luxurious than either a full-service restaurant or a hotel. There is one not far from where I live called, La Locanda gli Ullivi and it even has a pool!
Bar (pronounced the same but with an Italian R): Pretty much what you would expect. Might have a tavola calda (simple snacks served at the bar) or aperitivi which is not exactly what it looks like: Think of aperitivi more of as a happy hour. A bar will set out a self-service and or bring you snacks along with having drink specials.
Pizzeria (pee-dzay-ree-ah): You guessed it. Pizza! Most pizzerie are sit-down restaurants that specialize in pizza but usually also have a wide range of other menu items. It's rare to find one that doesn't have a wood oven. You can obviously buy whole books on the history of pizza. But the key here is the wood-fired oven. Every Italian has their favorite spot. On the menu are usually at least 20-25 different kinds of pizza. From the ubiquitous margherita to whatever you want. Like most everything else food-related in Italy, you have no choice in size. They all are about 10 inches in diameter and cover a whole plate. Don't worry, the pizza is very light here on the Boot and won't fill you up. They will also ask you if you want the olio piccante (spicy oil) which is like the pepper they have on the table in the States. I also usually order a birra media alla spina or large draft beer. And sorry, dad, they don't do hamburger pizzas here—order the salsiccia and hope it isn't too spicy.
Paninoteca (pah-neen-oh-tay-cah): Sandwich bar or more likely truck. That's about all they do.
Gelateria (jay-laht-ay-ree-ah): Saving the best for last—the ice cream shop. Enough said on that point.
If you ever do come to Italy and frequent any of these kinds of establishments, keep in mind that the tax is included in the price you see on the menu. Furthermore, at any sit-down establishment expect to pay the coperto or cover charge. It's usually only a couple of euros per head and basically serves as your tip. This pays for table water, breadsticks and the like. Don't tip unless you really want to (like a couple euros). Wait staff are on salary and the quality of service varies widely. We had a poor waiter the other night who stopped all of us mid-order to say that we had to back up and tell him what we wanted again in order of its appearance on the menu i.e. appetizers, first course, second course etc. Not typical but it happens. When I was in Siena last week, however, the proprietor of the restaurant I was at came out and gave us a free round of locally-produced liquor and let us finish the bottle. So it goes both ways.

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